I had planned to put together a nice overview for out-of-towners on some of the standout sodas in Jacó. However, as I began to embark on taste-testing dishes at local sodas, I realized that this was a task beyond my culinary powers. I’m not a foodie. In fact, I operate with a very basic three-star rating system when it comes to food:

3-Stars: That’s the most delicious thing ever! Today! In the past six hours!
2-Stars: Meh.
1-Star: I am so very sorry, taste buds, for putting you through that. I’ll make it up to you later with some ice cream. Promise!

A Soda? What are you talking about?

Yeah, let’s clear this up first. A soda is a small restaurant that serves a short list of mostly Costa Rican dishes, though you may often find other items like burritos or hamburguesas (or potentially anything else) on the menu. They are typically family-run, sometimes operating out of a building in someone’s front yard, and the menu itself might be as simple as a whiteboard hanging up somewhere highlighting the available dishes. The meals are made to order and (most fantastically) inexpensive, typically ranging from $4-$6. The casado, a staple of Costa Rican cuisine and available at all sodas, is a plate comprised of rice, beans, a meat, and maybe a salad and salsa. If you’re really lucky, you’ll get some fried plantains with it as well. (And this now completes today’s lesson on Costa Rican cuisine.)

But surely you have a favorite, Scott?! Not really. I have been nothing but completely satisfied dining at sodas but none stand out particularly. Sure, each soda may have something they may make exceedingly well. For example, Soda La Amistad on the south end of Jacó is supposed to have an amazing ceviche but I have yet to let my taste buds concur with the word on the street. And there are certain “bonus features” of some not available in others. Soda Marea Alta, for instance, is the only soda in Jacó open 24 hours; nice to know if you’re stumbling out of a bar at 2am and suddenly craving an empanada. And Isaga, while technically not a soda but close enough, is the only soda-esque place with a full bar. But as for best tasting food? I am of no use in this department. Taste is such a subjective issue and my palate isn’t overly discerning. (See rating system above.)

And honestly, in the case of sodas, while each cook uses their own special blend of spices and methods for preparation, it is patently absurd to try to contrast the subtleties of a casado at one soda to that of another especially given that you’re talking about places where chickens may wander in at any moment to see what’s up, blissfully unaware of the future that awaits them.

This isn’t Master Chef, Costa Rica Edition. These are simple family diners serving solid plates of good food. Dining at sodas really is a question of convenience. When I lived in Herradura, Soda Herradureña was my spot. The food was, of course, fantastic (nailing the 3-star rating) and the owner and his wife were very friendly so I enjoyed eating there. But it was the proximity to where I lived and the fact that I didn’t have to trek up and down a hill to get to it that ultimately made it my go-to soda. There were plenty of other good and tasty sodas I ate at while in Herradura but they lacked the convenience that my lazy self required.

Well above the rest

All of this being said, I am now going to tell you about the single most inconveniently located soda that you absolutely should not miss: Soda Doña Marta aka Rancho Shadday. It’s actually just outside of Jacó, about ten kilometers up in the mountains. And when I say up, I mean up. Like 2,000 feet up.

The only sensible way to get there is by either 4WD vehicle, a motorbike, or an ATV. In the case of an ATV, Adventure Tours Costa Rica is actually a great option as they have ATV tours that run up that way and they will gladly stop there for lunch if you want.

I, of course, wasn’t sensible at all in my methods of getting there. No, I hiked and biked my way for three and one-half hours through the mountains, questioning my reasoning abilities and sanity as the sun began to make its presence more and more known, eventually reaching the summit before descending slightly on the other side to reach Marta’s soda. For sure, I stopped often to rest, to take photos, and to scope out possible model shoot locations. But it’s completely nonsensical to bike/hike your way up there just for the meal. Still a beautiful excursion, though.

Speaking of the meal, three out of three stars! But it isn’t the meal that makes Soda Doña Marta stand out. It is the spectacular, awe-inspiring view that makes it all worth it. THIS is the reason that you absolutely need to go there.

So go there, grab an empanada, a beverage, and enjoy a spectacular view overlooking the mountainous land of Costa Rica.

How do I get there, Scott?

If you’re in downtown Jaco, take the road out which heads by Maxi Pali. Turn left on Rte 34 and immediately to the right, you’ll see a super-wide dirt road with signs for tourist locations and whatnot. Impossible to miss. That’s your road. Take it.
Here is a handy map. X marks the spot. (Click to enlarge.)

So there you have it. When you come to Costa Rica, eat at the sodas. Your belly and wallet will thank you. And if you happen to be in Jacó, go to Rancho Shadday. Your soul will also thank you.